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Washed, worn, still going. Quality holds up.
When thrifting, knowing a little about what you’re looking at can save you a lot of disappointment, and money. Let’s start with your comfort zone. Are you someone who actually irons their clothes? If your brain just said “Iron???” that says a lot about how you should thrift. You don’t have to fix everything, or save everything. Sometimes being a smart thrifter just means walking away.
So, let’s talk about wrinkles.
While this sounds good (wrinkles on purpose) it’s a little ironic. In an attempt to show ‘effortlessness’, pro-creasers are quite aware of the image wrinkled clothes create. It’s a display of casualness that still infers affluence, a nonchalant attitude seemingly more culturally appropriate than blatantly boasting of wealth.
I grew up in a generation that ironed bed sheets and underwear, so I still iron my clothes. But more and more, I see that younger generations are quite comfortable wearing a more casual, relaxed look. I.E. wrinkles are okay.
Of course I’ve worn wrinkled clothing. Who hasn’t? Day old tee shirt and jeans with knees? That look will never not be in.
Growing up in a family of professional sewers, I learned a lot about sewing, fabrics and how to tell quality from lesser well made garments. One way to quickly tell if something is going to look much like you slept in it from the get-go, is to scrunch the fabric up in your hand, and hold it for 30 seconds. If it falls back, relatively the same way it looked before the scrunch, it’s a better fabric than the one that stays looking like crumpled foil. And if you said “Iron???” or just don’t want to spend an hour hoping it’s going to look like new again, save your money for another day.
If an item is SO WRINKLED that it’s almost unidentifiable, but it’s got that LABEL you’re so hungry for, just walk away and keep looking. It is my opinion that the way the clothes are displayed in your typical thrift store shows you a bit about who previously owned that garment. If it looks like it spent a month in a garbage bag after an unsuccessful washing, then it’s likely not a good quality fabric. Or it may have shrunk. Either way, the previous owner didn’t want it anymore and did not care for it.
And here we are at the most important aspect of the appearance of the item of clothing you’re considering buying. It’s wrinkled, but you’re either okay with that, or you’re willing to try to steam them out. Don’t take the price tag off until you’ve tried, so if they take exchanges, you can return it.
The Jacket That Failed the Wrinkle Test
Very recently, I purchased a Zara jacket, a great colour, and style. Not a fan of Zara, one of the most offensive of the fast fashion brands, but secondhand I still like the styles. If the finishes are really nice, I’ll give it a shot. The jacket was quite wrinkled, but didn’t appear worn. I tried ironing. Nope. Then steam. Nope again. Were it linen, that wouldn’t have been an issue. Linen, I iron, I steam, and I wear it wrinkled, comfortably. This very smart jacket is going back because it’s not something I’d ever say looks just fine wrinkled.
If, when shopping, you see that thing on your wish-list, but it looks like this, and you’re not one to iron, steam or de-pill, pass it by. Dry cleaning (I’ve never been a fan) is very expensive, and if you add that into the purchase price of the preloved garment, it may make you think you should have bought new.
Are you one to sew, even if it’s just a little? If a shirt needs a button or a hem has partially unravelled, are you going to fix it? If you’re buying thrift, these are key issues to consider. What are you willing to do, or spend money to have someone alter or fix the garment for you? If you’re not able to do the alterations yourself, don’t forget to consider the additional costs when shopping secondhand. Or, simply walk away.
Tip: A simple, plain hem on a skirt starts around $35. A standard zipper replacement is between $20-35. A jean hem, $15 and a jean zipper, $25+.
About 10 years ago, I found a maxi Danier Leather coat, kid glove soft. It was $19. I did a small dance. However, I wore it that fall and in no time I realized it was just too long. I was going to ruin it in the early winter and spring months, so I stopped wearing it. This year, I inquired about the cost of shortening the coat. $120 +tax. Whew. BUT I’ll never find a coat like this again. So I paid for the alteration; I’ll wear it forever.
Here’s another good example. There is a vast price point between cashmere and polyester, but there are many price points within the cashmere world. Just because the label reads 100% cashmere doesn’t mean it won’t look like a pilled sweatshirt after a single wearing. Check the label, and fibre origin. It should feel soft and smooth, and should bounce back when stretched. There will always be fluff but excessive means more, and more fluff, more pilling. Price is relevant but the pricers don’t always get it right, so knowing how to evaluate fabrics in advance helps you get the best buy you can.
Tip: Even the best cashmere pills so an electric pill shaver is pretty much a necessity. The underarms and chestline will pill quickly and it takes just a minute to remove them. It’s the difference between looking smart and having a ‘used to be nice but it isn’t anymore’ vibe. Pilling happens to many fabrics regardless of the quality. These shavers will remove it from any of those fabrics, keeping them looking new for years.
Take a good look at the inside of the garment — turn it inside out. If it’s a REALLY high-end piece, the inner finishes should make it almost wearable in reverse. However, even clothes in the many hundreds of dollars seldom have that fine a finish anymore. If the hem is unravelling, seams doing likewise, or it’s obviously sub-standard quality work…why waste your money? It unfortunately won’t last long, regardless of how you care for it.
Remember that the label tells you it’s, perhaps, 100% cotton, but where was it made? How good is this cotton? It’s 100% linen, but there is linen and LINEN. Substandard is very common these days, so despite what it says it’s made from, just poke around a bit, do the scrunch test, look at the finishes, and buy based on value for your dollar. Just because it’s inexpensive, with a ‘fancy’ label doesn’t make it a nice piece. Be picky! We’re trying to eliminate the mountains of waste clothing cluttering our planet. Buying cheap, throwing away cheap, and rebuying cheap again is how we got here in the first place.
Every thrifter has a limit. The trick is figuring out yours before you end up ironing a $6 shirt you didn’t even like that much.
I started thrifting because the cost of fabric, and notions, to make the clothes myself became overpriced, and I just never looked back. I still sew but it’s more for reinventing something I’ve bought that just doesn’t, but could, fit with a little creativity.
I thrift because it’s practical, it’s environmentally friendly, and I want pieces that are going to hold up to years of wear. And yes, I like to dress well, and show that I’m aware of how I look. Fashion is fun.
