Linen was the first fabric that I learned to identify for thrifting. It has so much going for it: it stays cool even when it’s hot out, it doesn’t hold on to smells, it wicks moisture and it’s surprisingly durable for washing. Despite having a reputation for being wrinkly (which let’s face it, it’s very wrinkly) second hand linen is a summer wardrobe staple for thrifters.
Thrifting is by far the best way to acquire second hand linen clothes if you are on a budget or if you simply enjoy the slow game of building your wardrobe over time. A lot of mass-produced, lower-priced linen is just not as soft or durable as the linen produced in ye olden days (ie before the 2000s). So do you want to spend $44.99 on a linen-blend button-down from Old Navy or $10 for a vintage linen button-down from the men’s section of Value Village? Linen also gets softer with age so how better to skip the aging process? Thrift it!
Fast facts about linen
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- Linen is over 30,000 years old, making it the OG natural fabric.
- Linen is made from the flax plant and was the main fabric used for clothes until cotton took over in the 1700s.
- Linen is biodegradable, so it’s good for the planet and your wardrobe!
- It’s strong and gets softer with age. Second hand linen can be higher quality than the new stuff, which is often mixed to make blends.
- Linen naturally wicks moisture and stays cool, making it perfect for hot weather.
- The easiest way to ID linen is by feeling it’s uneven, slubby texture or checking the garment tag for “100% linen.”
- Linen absorbs moisture quickly, so a wet finger test can help identify it in thrift stores.
- A burn test can also help confirm linen; it ignites slower than cotton.
- Despite being wrinkle-prone, linen is more durable than you might think.
- It’s a timeless fabric that’s been used by everyone from ancient Egyptians to modern thrifters.
The history of linen fabric
Linen is the oldest fabric in the archaeological record. It is the OG natural textile! Aside from animal skins, that is. It is made from soft, silky strands inside the flax plant, which are then woven together to make linen. The earliest record of humans making linen dates back to 30,000 years ago in the Republic of Georgia. Linen was the primary textile used for garments until the late 1700s until new inventions made cotton way more efficient to produce than linen and therefore easier to profit. Fast fashion, if you will.
Fun Fact: because linen is made from plants, it is in fact biodegradable! Especially the stuff from ancient times, which hasn’t been dyed or treated with chemicals. Which has proved challenging to study as these ancient textiles are less likely to have been preserved.
Why thrifters love second hand linen
There are so many reasons to love second hand linen from the versatile styling to the cost: quality ratio compared to buying new. If you haven’t already added linen to your thrift store watch list then read on.
Cost
It’s expensive to buy new 100% linen clothes, especially if made with high-quality materials and not blended with rayon or other cheap fabrics. Your best chance at owning a top-tier piece of linen without spending top-tier dollars is to purchase it second hand.
Quality
Linen is a natural material and with proper care can last longer than clothing made from synthetics. You need to know that it will continue to last if you are going to bring it home with you
Style
It’s arguably one of the most timeless textiles in the world. Ancient Egypt? You would fit right in with your beige linen sundress! A great wardrobe staple. Can be bleached and dyed so you can even restyle it if you want.
Shopping for second hand linen
There are a few important details to keep in mind when hitting up the thrift store for linen. Especially with so many linen-blends on the market it’s important to know what you’re looking for.
How to identify linen in the thrift store
Garment tag
The most obvious way to identify linen at the thrift store is by looking at the garment tag. If it says “100% linen” then boom! There’s your answer. But unfortunately sometimes the tag is missing or the text on the tag has been washed away. Then you have to resort to the look/feel of the material or if you’re feeling spicy you might have to set it on fire.
Look/feel
If the garment tag is missing, identifying linen by its texture and appearance is your next best bet. Linen has uneven threads, giving it a slubby, slightly rough texture, unlike the smoother, more uniform feel of cotton. When you drape it over your hand, linen stays cool, while cotton will make your hand feel a bit warmer. Another quick trick is to press a wet finger to the fabric—linen absorbs moisture instantly along the weave, whereas cotton will just form a damp spot.
Burn test
If you happen to have textile to spare then, a burn test can help. Linen takes longer to ignite compared to cotton, and blends will fall somewhere in between. Be sure to look up burn test guidelines before attempting this, because once the fabric is on fire, you don’t want to be scrambling to figure it out. Comparing a pure linen sample to your mystery fabric can make the process easier. Note: I do not recommend using the fire test *in the actual thrift store*.
Best categories to shop for second hand linen
These are some of the best categories to check if you’re looking for some thrifted linen pieces to add to your wardrobe.
- Button downs, especially the mens section
- Pants
- Shorts
- Dresses
- Blazers/jackets
- Blouses
- Raw material if you are crafty
- Bed sheets
Tip: Always shop in sections that aren’t your typical size. Size labels can be deceiving, especially with so many different brands and eras of clothing all jumbled together.
Where to find second hand linen
In-person thrift stores
Being able to shop in-person is always tops for me. You can visually skim racks for the slubby texture of linen and inspect the quality and fit of garments.
Online thrift stores
Online thrift stores are another option for scoring good-quality linen pieces. Obviously using the search term “linen” will bring up results but we especially love website where you can filter for materials (like Thredup).
Consignment stores and curated vintage shops
If you don’t have the time or energy for a traditional thrift hunt then consignment stores and curated second hand shops can be a great alternative. The price point will be a bit higher (it takes a lot of work to manage that sort of inventory!) but you can find nice linen pieces much more easily.
How to check the quality of linen
There are three ways to tell if linen is high-quality or not: the weave, the weight and the feel. Because linen has a visible weave, it’s easy to examine. Hold it up to the light to check how tight the weave is. If it’s tight, even and smoothly woven then you’ve got a winner. If there are big squares of light or loose threads it may be lower-quality. The weight is important too. Good-quality linen is heavy but also miraculously light at the same time. Low-quality linen is flimsy and sheer. Finally, the feel is important. The good stuff is soft and gently textured, whereas the bad stuff is scratchy and feels a bit like paper.
Remember: Always check for damage
As always, do a thorough damage check. The good news is, linen is mendable. But you need to know yourself and whether your mending stack is already piled too high to take on a new project. Splotchy or discoloured linen? Linen can also be bleached! But alas I have a pair of discoloured linen shorts that have been hidden away for years that still haven’t made it to the top of my project list. Perhaps next year…
How to care for linen
How to wash linen clothes
Put your hand up if you thought linen was a delicate material that needed to be treated with the utmost respect? Nope! Linen is in fact quite durable. It holds up well in the wash and if you wash it on a gentle cycle you should get many, many, MANY wears out of your favourite linen garments. That being said, we are all about preservation here so here is how to maximize the life of your thrifted linen garments:
- Wash on cold in a gentle cycle, with gentle detergent
- Avoid fabric softeners as it can break down the material
- Use a medium to low heat when putting in the dryer
- Remove from the dryer when still damp to iron out wrinkles
Note: Hopefully if you are dealing with a thrifted linen garment then it has been well washed and broken in by the time it makes its way to your hands!
How to dry linen
If you have a clothesline or other air drying system then by all means, hang your linen up to dry in the fresh breeze! I personally tend to throw my linen clothes in the dryer on low without giving it a second thought. Remove from the dryer when still damp to iron out wrinkles.
How to repair linen fabric
Linen does have the tendency to break down in areas of high friction, which might call for a repair. Here are some suggestions:
- At the first sign of a hole or wearing, take the garment to a tailor for reinforcement (unless of course you have the skills to do such a repair at home)
- Consider ‘visible mending’. This adds a whole new element of creativity to your garment! It works particularly well in uniform areas such as the knees or elbows but could certainly be applied creatively in other places as well.
How to iron linen
Ok yes linen is wrinkly. For some reason we don’t like wrinkles in our clothes. Linen is wrinkly because the fibre itself is not very bendy. Better-quality linen wrinkles just like the rest, but it tends to drape better and feel softer over time.
The best time to iron your linen is when it’s still slightly damp coming out of the dryer. The next best time to iron your linen is frantically with a cheap steamer wand immediately before you walk out the door. After that? Embrace the wrinkle!
Second hand linen is absolutely worth the hunt!
Linen is one of the most versatile and timeless fabrics you can add to your wardrobe, and thrifting is hands down the best way to get your hands on it. With its ability to get softer and more comfortable with age, linen just keeps improving over time. By thrifting, you’re not only saving money but also skipping the modern trend of synthetic blends and lower-quality materials. Instead, you’re giving new life to well-made, natural garments. Plus, finding those hidden gems at thrift stores means you can enjoy top-tier fabrics without the premium price tag. Wrinkles and all, linen is a wardrobe staple that you can feel good about—and it will keep delivering season after season.
